Vrsar | More than sun and sea
God intended to shape the earth in the image of paradise and created Istria, connecting green spaces and the sea. The waves and trees played a song inviting people to live in happiness. Once a land where fairies, giants and people lived together, historically restless, Istria today exudes tranquility.
Whoever came to Istria wanted to stay there, and because of that desire, they returned every year. Because, while you are in Istria, you will not dream of things that do not exist, because everything is possible and achievable here.
Casa Bonazza offers exactly that.
A home that you have never left.
And Vrsar is in Istria. In it, your head is in the shade, your belly in the sun, and your feet in the water. Enjoying life is enjoying Istria, its peculiarities and diversity. In Vrsar, the wind blowing will not bother you, and you will feel the smell of salt every day. It is enough to breathe in, and your mind will wander, observing the beauty.
The entire peninsula is like a healing spa that rehabilitates both body and soul. A walk through Istria is like a medicine, an elixir that every traveler must try for themselves. Giacomo Casanova was also a traveler and adventurer, and it is the narrow streets of Vrsar that hold the secrets of the eternal dream seeker.
Edo Murtić and Dušan Džamonja spent their most fruitful artistic days in Vrsar, these timeless artists whose works still whisper stories about the Vrsar stone and sea today. Today, Vrsar is the city with the most works of art per capita thanks to its sculpture colony, which has been an important part of the contemporary art scene for 35 years.
Be curious and ask us, we will reveal secrets to you and give you guidelines that will help you find your own corner of freedom and hope in Istria. Olives, truffles, wine, carpaccio, stone and sea will find themselves on that path...
- VRSAR VIEWPOINTS -
First among equals, a viewpoint under the treetop
The tree that casts a deep shadow is Košćela, the Istrian Ladonja, the name for the agora, a place where people gathered to talk, where they deliberated, judged, where marriages or deals were made, where sometimes there was not enough room for everyone who wanted its shade. One could also hide under the Ladonja.
Whoever sat under the Ladonja in Vrsar, it was difficult to drag him to another place. Next to it is the church of St. Anthony of Padua, after which this oldest viewpoint in Vrsar was named, behind it are the Small Town Gates, next to which Casanova sits on a bench and looks at the Vrsar waterfront, where he first disembarked when coming to Vrsar.
Casanova Viewpoint
As a sign of gratitude, Vrsar named one of its viewpoints after Casanova, who mentioned the town in his work "Historie de ma vie". At the viewpoint there is a bench made of Istrian stone on which two stylized figures are "sitting". The view goes towards the Vrsar marina and the island of St. Jurja, the largest in the Vrsar archipelago. To tell the truth, Casanova also stayed in Bale, where a street bears his name, and where he supposedly got involved with the then owner of the Soardo-Bembo palace.
Viewpoint Bepo and Tonina
It tells about the long love of Bepo and Tonina, in whose marble lap you can sit and experience Vrsar paradise, convinced that ordinary mortals can taste it too.
The Sea and Guitar Festival is held at this viewpoint and Vrsar serenades are sung.
Viewpoint St. Martin
It is located behind the parish church and overlooks Valkanela and the abandoned Montraker quarry. Passing by the stone sculpture of Cupid, you can take the stairs down to the Montraker viewpoint on the hill of the quarry.
Vrsar has a total of 8 viewpoints.
Two are located in the forest of Kontija and overlook the Lim Bay, and the highest one is on the Belfry next to the Church of St. Martin, from which you can see all 18 islands and islets of the Vrsar archipelago.
History of Vrsar
In prehistoric times, on a 54-meter-high hill where the old city center is now located, there was a small Histrian hillfort. The Histrians, a Venetian-Illyrian tribe to whom Istria owes its name, were the first to create cities here.
The last Histrian king Epulon defended himself fanatically, his warriors killing his own wives and children so that they would not fall into the hands of the Romans. When there was no way out, Epulon killed himself.
During the Roman Empire, the coastal area between the present-day settlements of Vrsar and Funtana was called Ursaria, after the Mediterranean term “ur”, which meant spring. It is assumed that the proto-Mediterranean word for spring entered the root of the name of the place, because sailors used to come along this coast, all the way to the entrance to the Lim Bay, to fetch water.
In Roman chronicles, the place was called Ursaria, Ursarium, Vrsarium, Orsaria, from which the Italian and Croatian names of the place can be derived. In late antiquity, a port settlement developed next to the settlement on the hill, with country villas, a breakwater and an early Christian church that was destroyed during the Slavic-Avar attacks at the beginning of the 7th century.
From 983 to 1772, Vrsar was owned by the bishops of Poreč. Everything happened like in a movie with various masters, the Franks, Byzantium, Venice, Austria-Hungary, Italy, Yugoslavia...
- IN VRSAR -
Church of St. Foška
Church of St. Foška was built in the first half of the 17th century. The church has a Renaissance facade to which Baroque elements were added later. On the front, above the portal, there is a round window, and at the top there is a trestle for two bells. There used to be two bells in the castle, one from 1680 and the other from the 18th century. The younger bell was removed during the First World War, used for war purposes, and replaced by a new bell in 1922. During World War II, both bells were removed, but not destroyed. Today, they are in their original condition, in the bell tower of the parish church of St. Martin. In the interior of the church, there is a floor paved with stone slates, on which you can also see tombs with Latin text.
East (main) city gate
A few meters from the church of St. Foška is home to the East or Main City Gate from the 13th century.
The door is decorated with a simple semicircular Romanesque arch.
On the inside, there are stone and iron rings to which wooden wings were attached.
Castle
The first castle was probably built in the 9th century. It is not yet known for sure whether it was built of wood or stone. In the 12th century it was mentioned as castrum Ursariae. In the 13th century, during the reign of Bishop Otto, the castle was reconstructed with stone. In the 17th century, it was rebuilt by Bishop Adelasio, but the structure from the 13th century was preserved. The castle had a central three-story palace with a courtyard and a well, and a crown on top, surrounded by walls with four towers at the corners. In the 19th century, the castle came under the ownership of the Vergottini patrician family and acquired its present appearance. The castle was last renovated in 2001.
Parish Church of St. Martin
Parish Church of St. Martina is three-nave, built of stone from a nearby quarry. The foundations were laid in 1804. It was built during the French rule in Istria from 1805 to 1813. Then the construction was suspended until 1927, when it continued until the completion of the church in 1935. The main altar is wooden, and was brought in 2008 from the parish church of St. Euphemia from Rovinj. There is a new wooden statue of Saint Martin on the altar.
Bell tower and church bells on display
Alongside the church is a freestanding bell tower, forty meters high, built in 1991. The bell tower displays six church bells that are no longer in use, including two bells from the church of St. Foška.
Church of St. Mary of the Sea
At the very exit from the marina (the marina was opened in Vrsar in 2001), on the left, there is the three-nave Romanesque church of St. Mary of the Sea, which with its monumentality (24.5 x 12.5 m) is reminiscent of early Christian churches.
Church of St. Mary of the Sea was built on the remains of an earlier Roman building (probably a rustic villa or a country manor with outbuildings) in the 8th century, and its present appearance of three inscribed apses, Romanesque arcades and monolithic columns was acquired in the 12th century. The inner walls were decorated with frescoes, but today they are barely visible. The frescoes were painted on two occasions, the first time in the 9th or 10th century, and the second time in the 16th century. The church was restored several times, the last time in 1969. There used to be a cemetery around it, the remains of which are visible today only along the northern wall of the church yard. Next to the church are the remains of an old monastery of Carmelites (named after Mount Carmel in Palestine) that were there until the 14th century. In the 17th century, Franciscans moved in, who soon left it due to a dispute with the bishop of Poreč over the ownership of the monastery properties. Today, only the facade of the monastery has been preserved. Near the church are the remains of the previously mentioned old Christian church, which are covered with earth, so they are not visible.
Church of St. Anthony of Padua
Renaissance Church of St. Anthony of Padua is a one-nave building with a portico and a chancel, and was built in 1656. It was thoroughly renovated in 2010. There is a baroque wooden altar in the church.
Small city gates
Next to the church of St. Anthony of Padua, there is a small city gate from the end of the 12th or the beginning of the 13th century.
The doors still have old wooden door frames, which are among the oldest in Istria.
- GREEN VRSAR -
LIM BAY
Lim Bay is one of the most beautiful natural wonders of Istria. It is located between Rovinj and Vrsar. Formed as part of a submerged river mouth, it is part of the Lim Bay. It is bordered by hills up to 200 meters high, 200 to 600 meters wide, and 12.8 kilometers long. The depth in the central part is 30 meters. In 1980, it was declared a special marine reserve.
Lim Bay is also known for Romuald's Cave, whose only half-meter-high entrance is located at an altitude of 120 meters above the sea. Behind the small entrance, a main hall is revealed, about 6 meters high and 105 meters long. It is famous for the fact that cave decorations adorn only its left side, but also for the fact that Romuald from the 10th century, a saint whose day is celebrated on June 19, found refuge there. The cave is also known for being home to a colony of protected bats Myotis Myotis, one of the last in Europe, as well as Romuald's bat, an endemic insect that lives only in Istrian caves. There is another one in the bay, Lumbard's Cave or Pirate's Cave, and it is associated with the legend of the pirate Henry Morgan who, according to stories, hid in it together with his booty. Today, there is a "Pirate Bar" that can be accessed from the sea or by a well-maintained walking path: piratecave.net/.
Lim Bay is also special in terms of the composition of its water, it is abundant in underwater springs and plankton and makes a perfect area for growing shellfish, mussels and oysters.
Two Viking films were filmed in Lim Bay - in 1958 and 1964, starring Kirk Douglas and Tony Curtis.
KONTIJA FOREST
The Kontija Forest is located between the settlements of Kloštar, Gradina and Flengi on an area of 65 hectares and is rich in beautiful picnic areas and well-maintained hiking and cycling trails. The forest is dominated by 150-year-old hornbeam vegetation. The area has been included in the forest reserve of the same name since 1964. The natural environment and oasis of peace is suitable for hiking, day trips, recreational cycling and peaceful time in nature. A system of macadam roads and 141 border markers from the Austrian period stretch through the forest. At the very beginning of the forest is the ZEC Kontija Scientific and Educational Center. klim.com.hr/galerija.php Established on the site of a ruined farmstead, it was conceived as a place to educate a new generation of scientists, local residents, tourists and passers-by.
Within the forest area, there is also the Mukaba hillfort, which offers one of the most beautiful natural viewpoints over the Lim Bay, St. Euphemia, Vrsar and the islands in front of it. An observation post has also been set up on Mukaba. It is also recognized as a hunting ground and a hunting lodge has been established. The extensive system of roads that run along it connect significant and valuable sites such as Sveti Mihovil nad Limom, the Lim Bay, Mukaba, and the flattened karst area around the Vrsar airport that extends over the Lim Bay. In addition to the Mukaba hillfort, facilities for excursionists have also been established.
VRSAR | Pet Friendly
In Vrsar, even cats have their own apartments right by the sea.
There are 6 cat houses in Marina Vrsar.
Feeding is allowed in the Marina only inside the specially marked feeding area on the promenade, while it is prohibited in other places, especially in the parking lot, so as not to get hurt. Donations in the form of cat food are certainly welcome!
This project was also supported by the local authorities, the Marina and the Municipality of Vrsar.
By the way, the whole of Vrsar is pet friendly. Nowhere will you see more dogs on beaches and in restaurants spending the summer with their owners. Dogs are welcome and petted everywhere. It will often happen that they first bring your pet a bowl of water, and only then ask you what you would like to drink. Of course, next to Marina Montraker there is also a beach for pets, as well as at the Porto Sole campsite.
Interesting facts
- The first tourist season began in Vrsar on June 1, 1957.
- The first commercial naturist facility in Europe after World War II was built on the island of Koversada in 1961.
- The Italians transported stone from Vrsar to build Venetian palaces, churches and bridges, and the oak that grew in the Mirna River valley was used to build Venice itself.
- In the wall of the small city gate, above the entrance to the old town, there is a ball fired from one of Napoleon's cannons.
- Vrsar is the only place in the world to have a monument to Casanova.
- The fjord, a protected landscape, is a 12-kilometer-long bay. Lim Bay is located between the towns of Rovinj and Vrsar, and is famous for its oyster farming. Two Viking films were filmed in Lim Bay – in 1958 and 1964, starring Kirk Douglas and Tony Curtis.
- Stone sculptures on the waterfront in Vrsar serve as cleats for tying up boats.
Vrsar Amaretti
If you are looking for a traditional recipe in Vrsar, it is amaretti. They are not made from almonds but from hazelnuts, eggs and sugar. Until recently, there were numerous hazelnut plantations in the Vrsar area, unlike the more famous Italian amarettos, whose main ingredient is almonds. This is the Istrian oblong variety, which, according to older people, was used because it was easier to clean than the round one. No one is impressed by the simple recipe, but once they are ready, it is hard to stop eating them. In Vrsar, there is one challenge that no one passes, and that is to eat just one Vrsar amaretti.
Among the traditional sweet delicacies in Istria, cukerančići and hroštule are also famous.
Amareti Days, a boutique event dedicated to this traditional cookie, the guardian of the local story and taste, are held in Vrsar in September every year. The event combines gastronomy, tradition and creativity, preserving the story of Vrsar amaretti and passing it on to new generations - from demonstrations of traditional production to contemporary interpretations.
- DESTINATIONS NEARBY -
POREČ | 10 km from Vrsar
If you are able, you should first see the Istrian towns from the sea.
In Poreč, you can also listen to "La mula de Parenzo" while visiting the Euphrasian Basilica, the Old Town, Marafor Square, and while in the Romanesque House you are looking for the remains of the city founded by the Romans in the 1st century BC. The decorative fountain on Marafor Square was created in 1909. It shows a boy playing with two fish from whose mouth water gushes, and then the water was used for decorative purposes for the first time in the public space of Poreč.
The splendor of ancient Poreč was ensured by the vice admiral of the Ravenna fleet from II. century, Titus Abudius Verus, who lived in the city where he restored many temples and built a port with a pier. The Euphrasian Basilica is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
It is interesting that the Kastel in Vrsar was the summer residence of the Poreč bishops. The Vrsar county was the largest, most important and richest possession of the Poreč bishop. A few years later, in 1961, Edo Murtić, a painter from Vrsar, founded Poreč annals, a collective exhibition of fine artists.
ROVINJ | 25 km from Vrsar
From the window of Casa Bonazza, you can see the bell tower, which is more than 60 m high.
On July 13, 800, the sea brought a sarcophagus from what was then Constantinople. It was not pulled to shore by strong men, but by a thin, weak boy with his two cows. The sarcophagus contained the body of St. Euphemia. The inhabitants of the city declared her their patron saint, named the hill after her and built a church.
On its top is a weather vane in the shape of St. Euphemia, which turns and dances with the winds, at the same time protecting the inhabitants of Rovinj.
PULA | 45 km from Vrsar
Fairies danced in Istria and wandered at night so that other inhabitants would not see them. If someone were to see them, they did not foreshadow bad events, but only gave him good luck. They were also skilled builders and built the Arena in Pula under cover of night. They brought the stone from Učka, and while dancing in a circle, they arranged it in a circle. At the sound of the first cock, the fairies disappeared, and the building remained unfinished, and the stone remained scattered on the road they were walking on... Another legend says that the Arena was built in honor of the most beautiful woman of that time, Antonia Cenida, who was the lover of Emperor Vespasian. Arena defies time and lasts. There is also the Temple of Augustus and the forum, the Golden or Hercules Gate, which is the oldest monument in Pula, 1st century BC. You should also see the underground tunnels, Zerostrasse. Pula also has world boxing champion Mata Parlov. In the former state, the rule was that there were only two people who should not be held against, Tito and Mate Parlov.
It is the largest city in Istria and hosts a film festival founded in 1954 as the Domestic Film Review. James Joyce, the famous writer, taught English in Pula.
BRIONI | 40 km and 15 min. by boat from Vrsar
At Brijuni you will find everything about the Non-aligned movement, which originated in Istria. The train will take you around the safari park, you will hang out with Koki, Tito's pet parrot, and see traces of life from the Stone Age. Once upon a time, the European aristocracy enjoyed playing golf on the course, which in 1922 was the largest in Europe. Richard Strauss, Gustav Klimt, Thomas Mann, Richard Burton, Sophia Loren rested on Brioni, so you can too... Brioni is also home to the oldest olive tree in the Mediterranean, which is more than 1,600 years old. You will see the Archaeological Museum, the church of St. German, Tito's Cadillac from 1953.
RIJEKA | 90 km from Vrsar
The city that flows and the largest Croatian port had a direct line to New York back in 1903. Dynamic and energetic, encouraging its residents to be active, Rijeka never stops, always progresses and develops. It is surrounded by flowing wealth, with the Riječina River flowing through it, as well as about twenty other covered streams. The inexhaustible source of drinking water by the sea has always attracted people "to the river", which is why the city got its name. Rijeka's streams were occupied by sugar, rope, paper, cigarette factories and the most famous among them - the torpedo factory, the first of its kind in the world. Rijeka has a City Puppet Theater, a children's festival Tobogan with performances and workshops, and was among the first to earn the title of "child-friendly city". Rijeka hosts the international festival of world music and gastronomy Porto Etno. The Astronomical Center is the first and only in Croatia to combine an observatory and a digital planetarium. A special gem of Rijeka is the ship Galeb, better known as Tito's floating residence, on which the Non-Aligned Movement was founded. In addition to the four seasons, Rijeka also has a fifth, Carnival. The Carnival procession is one of the largest in Europe, and the Halubaj Bell Ringers are included in UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. At the beginning of the 20th century, one of the first pet cemeteries in Europe was opened in Rijeka. In the building of the Rijeka Theatre from 1765, in addition to performances, you can also enjoy the ceiling painted by Gustav and Ernst Klimt. Husar, one of the first disco clubs in this part of Europe, opened in Rijeka in 1957.
The patron saint of the city is St. Vid.